Let them eat bugs
Let them eat bugs The elites’ war on meat has taken a disgusting turn. Andrew Orlowski Last winter, as the prospect of yet another forced isolation loomed, the lines of queues snaked around the block. I couldn’t tell what they were for, at first. But every one of these queues led to the door of a butchers, and there, in the freezing fog, the stoicism and patience of the queuers told its own story. Meat matters. The revival of butchers in gentrified neighbourhoods resembles the changes in the pub trade: there are fewer than there once were, but speciality or ‘craft’ butchers are springing up to feed the demand for quality. However, the comparison falls short, for it isn’t only wealthy millennials who have retained their enthusiasm for cooking meat. ‘It’s working-class families, too’, food journalist Joanna Blythman tells me. In fact, as a nation we spent an extra £600million more on meat in 2021 compared with 2020. The top-down messaging assures us that veganism is on the rise, and