Posts

Showing posts from September 22, 2024

The Last Quarter

Image
  The Last Quarter Surfing, Getting Older, and the End of Western Civilization Kalihi Valley Druid How many more of these do we get? They say there are two distinct periods in life where you feel a noticeable physical decline. One comes when you are around 45 and the other arrives around 60. When 45 hit it was quite remarkable for me, especially because it brought the hard realization that I wasn’t going to be able to go out and fight the rip at 10 foot Sunset Beach forever. Then all of a sudden the old habit of thinking about my trail of mistakes and blown opportunities took on a whole new sting. It turns out there aren’t endless second chances after all, and the cruel joke of the universe dictates that by the time we get our first dim understanding of how the bigger picture works and are finally in the proper frame of mind to make something happen, the end of the tunnel is already coming up. These thoughts have weighted heavily on my mind lately, especially as I watch the years race